New York Kitchen Style - Cabinets - Door hardware
Posted on July 7, 2008 - Filed Under Kitchen Hardware, Kitchen Accessories | Leave a Comment
While hinges and door latches are ordinarily included with the cabinets, customers usually get to choose their own knobs and pulls. That affords buyers the opportunity to express their individual taste in their selections, and their choices are virtually limitless.
Hardware is available in every conceivable style and color. In fact, it’s impossible to show a representative cross section of styles because there are simply too many. This article describes some of the basic types that are available and how they’re used.
Hinges
Hinges and exposed latches are ordinarily selected from a handful of options offered by the cabinet manufacturer, and are chosen to match the knobs and pulls.
Each manufacturer works a little differently, but most offer a choice of a small number of hinges to complement whatever knobs the customer wants. Obviously this is less important with a concealed hinge. But unless the cabinet is custom built, you’ll find the hinge selection rather limited. Generally, the hinges will vary by finish and design, and they do change from time to time without notice.
Basic types
Knobs - These are handles mounted to doors or drawers with a single screw or bolt. Knobs may be combined with backplates or used alone. They typically range in size from 3/4″ to 2″ in diameter.
Some knobs have screws built in, making them easier to install. They are becoming ever more popular because they’re more versatile than pulls, and easier to use than small latch handles. They have the added advantage of being more easily replaced than pulls because they don’t pose a problem in matching existing holes.
Knobs aren’t limited to being round. They can be flat with rounded edges, round like a ball, square, “T” shaped, or even bun shaped. They come in a variety of finishes, from wood to metal, and can be decorated or plain .
Most questions concerning knobs involve size, quantity or positioning. Knobs are like eyes and noses; their size and placement on a cabinet can have unpleasant results if not well planned.
For all but the largest cabinets, a knob between 1″ and 1 1/2″ diameter is appropriate.
If knobs are used on the drawers, they should be the same size or bigger than those on the doors. Wood knobs should generally be one size larger than an equivalent metal knob.
Most knobs come with a machine screw sized for 3/4″ thick material. For thicker wood, a longer screw may need to be special-ordered. American made knobs are commonly threaded for 8/32 screws that can easily be found in most local hardware stores. European manufacturers use screws with a wide range of threads from 2mm metric to 1/4″, which may not be readily available.
Pulls
Pulls perform the same service as knobs, but tend to be larger or more elaborate, and can greatly alter the look of the cabinet.
Pulls may be combined with a backplate or used alone; they’re usually attached with two or more screws, or have movable parts such as a ring handle. They also come in many different styles. Some of the more common types are D handles, bail handles, ring handles, latch handles, and cup pulls. There is some confusion in naming conventions across manufacturers, so you may see similar types of pulls given contradictory names by different companies.
The D handle is a fixed-position pull, named for its shape. This type of pull is mounted by two screws and may be used with or without a backplate. It is the most common type of pull and is often simply called a pull with no special designation. It is sold in thousands of different styles and finishes.
Appliance Door Handles
Large “D” handle pulls for use on appliance doors (such as refrigerators and freezers), are available in complimentary finishes and designs for most door pulls/knobs.
The bail handle is characterized by an open loop that hangs freely between two fixed mounts. It is a modern version of a loop of rope tied between two holes.
Bail handles are mounted either on a single decorative backplate or on a pair of smaller plates (rosettes), one behind each post. Single backplates protect the wood behind the handle from damage from both fingernails and the bail itself, but both types serve to reinforce the mounting holes.
A pair of rosettes has the added advantage of allowing some adjustment in width by opening or closing the bail, which can be helpful in replacement situations.
In a typical application the bail should be wide enough to accommodate four fingers of a hand. This requirement has established a spread of 2 3/4″ - 3 1/2″ center to center for the mounting posts as the norm. Bails will usually take either the simple “D” shape or the more ornate swan neck form.
The drop handle is similar to a bail handle except that it requires no separate rosette or backplate. The mounting post on each side has a built-in flange that protects and reinforces the wood.
A lifting handle is commonly used on movable chests. It looks similar to a bail handle, either mounted to a pair of smaller rosettes or on a larger single plate. However, it has a stop that prevents the handle from rising past 90 degrees. In addition, while bail handles are usually mounted through the wood with a threaded post and nut, lifting handles are generally face mounted with woodscrews. These handles are rarely used on kitchen cabinetry, but are often used on period pieces in other rooms of the house.
The ring handle is also similar to the bail handle, but is typically mounted with a single screw. The ring and mount are often partnered with a backplate.
In some cases, the ring is countersunk into the backplate, forming what some manufacturers call a plate handle. The backplate reinforces the wood where the mounting post is fastened. It also provides the opportunity for every imaginable decorative pattern.
Ring handles come in a wide range of sizes. Their low profile makes them a good choice in tight places such as internal drawers; many of the smaller sizes have an overall projection of less the 3/8″ and even the larger sizes are commonly less 
than 5/8″.
The latch handle is really a vertically mounted D pull that mimics a door latch, except that it has no moving parts. It comes in a variety of sizes and should be proportioned to the door on which it is installed. If it’s too small for fingers to grip, it will be harder to use than a knob.
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Planning and Design Getting started
Posted on July 6, 2008 - Filed Under Uncategorized | Leave a Comment
Carefully measure up your kitchen in centimetres making a precise scaled plan on the grid provided in the B&Q Kitchen Planner PDF (596 KB download
Measure in a clockwise direction, starting from the door, and note which direction the doors open.
Be careful to check the following:
- Take the ceiling height at several points.
- Ensure the kitchen is square by measuring diagonally (or compare opposing walls).
- Carefully mark the location of existing power points, plumbing, gas supply, air vents and any permanent features such as windows, sills, radiators and boilers.
- Always check dimensions, if in doubt measure it again.
- Note the space required for your kitchen appliances.
- Finally check what the walls are made of to ensure that you buy the correct fixings for your unit.
Planning your kitchen
It’s important to design a kitchen that revolves around your needs. Creating a triangle between your cooker, sink and fridge will make a better working environment. This will ensure that your workspace is never cramped, allowing you to move freely between appliances.
The layout you choose will depend on the size and shape of your room - and the position of windows and doors. Plumbing and electrical points can usually be moved, so do not let these restrict your design.
Most kitchens fall into four basic designs, a single line of units, a double line (galley), and an L-shaped or U-shaped kitchen.
By combining cabinets imaginatively to these designs it is easy to totally transform your kitchen to suit your lifestyle.
Working out the detail
Using the dimensions of the cabinets you wish to purchase, sketch your chosen units to scale on the grid of the B&Q Kitchen Planner PDF (596 KB download). Alternatively, cutting out the shape of the cabinets to scale allows you to move individual units around your kitchen plan and work out the best layout.
Hints & Tips
DO
- Try to position your sink by a window, so you have a view.
- Position electrical sockets a minimum distance of 150mm above worktops.
- Position extractors or cupboards a minimum distance of 750mm above hobs.
- Use heat or fireproof cable on cookers or hobs.
- Locate dishwashers and washing machines close to sink to minimise plumbing work.
- Ensure that wall and floor units are of similar widths-so the doors line up.
- Keep tall units at the end of the worktop runs, to maximise the working area.
- Place your hob or free-standing cooker in position this minimises the distance needed to carry hot pans across the walkways in the kitchen.
- Allow at least 300mm of clear space each side of the hob to allow for protruding pan handles.
- Position extractor fans on (or close to) outside walls.
- Allow adequate space around free-standing appliances for easy access, (refer to manufacturers fitting instructions).
DON’T
- Locate a cooker or hob beneath a window where curtains could catch fire - or where it is dangerous to reach over to the window.
- Plan a wall unit above a hob without an extractor fan.
- Plan a hob next to a tall unit, corner wall or at the end of a run.
- Plan appliances in a corner.
- Put an inset sink near worktop joints.
- Position a sink or cooker near or next to opening doors.
- Box in boilers or other gas appliances as these require air flow to operate properly and safely.
- Put a cooker hob under or near electrical sockets.
- Position cookers next to fridges or freezers.
- Block up existing air vents if there are gas appliances in the kitchen.
Everything you need to Take Away today
Once you have decided on your units and worktops don’t forget the other exciting accessories that can add those finishing touches - such as plinths, pelmets, cornices, handles, decorative legs and wirework.
Consult a plumber if in doubt about the positioning of a sink or dishwasher as it is not always possible to reposition them - you will need to take into account the positions for waste pipes and drains. It is also important to consult a Corgi registered fitter about air vents and an electrician about electrical work.
Cabinets - Door styles
Posted on July 6, 2008 - Filed Under Kitchen Cabinet Finishes, Kitchen Cabinet Refacing, Kitchen Cabinet Design, Kitchen Cabinet Doors, Kitchen Cabinets | Leave a Comment
How the cabinet door fits over the cabinet box determines its basic type.
Your options for door type include:
- Inset
- Lipped
- Partial overlay
- Full overlay
Inset doors sit within the rails and stiles and lay flush with the front edges of the cabinet box. Truly inset doors are only available with a framed construction, but designers can achieve the same look using vertical pilasters on frameless cabinets.
Lipped doors are routed with a slight wooden groove to fit over the face frame. Partial overlay doors somewhat conceal the frame, while full overlay doors have less than one-eighth of an inch between them. Frameless cabinets have full overlay doors but some framed cabinets have them as well. You can tell for sure whether a cabinet is framed or frameless by opening a door and checking for rails and stiles.
How the cabinet door fits over the cabinet box determines its basic type.
Your options for door type include:
- Inset
- Lipped
- Partial overlay
- Full overlay
Inset doors sit within the rails and stiles and lay flush with the front edges of the cabinet box. Truly inset doors are only available with a framed construction, but designers can achieve the same look using vertical pilasters on frameless cabinets.
Lipped doors are routed with a slight wooden groove to fit over the face frame. Partial overlay doors somewhat conceal the frame, while full overlay doors have less than one-eighth of an inch between them. Frameless cabinets have full overlay doors but some framed cabinets have them as well. You can tell for sure whether a cabinet is framed or frameless by opening a door and checking for rails and stiles.
Besides door type, you’ll want to consider different door shapes. One cabinet manufacturer may offer hundreds of door styles in an endless array of finishes.
Your options for door style include:
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While the door’s type and shape may supply the backbeat, its color and decoration add rhythm and harmony. A flat slab, oak door stained with a light color, for example, will sing a much different tune than a flat slab, MDF door covered in stainless steel.
Like the finest furniture, the highest quality cabinets are finished in multiple steps, which might include hand sanding, rubbing with steel wool, and hand buffing. Compare it to painting: You want to apply several thin layers so that if it chips it won’t all peel off. The multiple steps also help create a smoother texture and a deeper color.
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DESIGN, PLAN AND FIT A KITCHEN
Posted on July 6, 2008 - Filed Under Kitchen, Kitchen Design | Leave a Comment
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Fitting a kitchen requires a great deal of skill, and is most suited to the more advanced DIYer. There are a wide range of skills involved, and you will need to have knowledge in the following trades; Carpentry, Plumbing, Electrical and Tiling. |
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There are many safety factors involved in fitting a kitchen: always check for electrical cables and water pipes, using a pipe and power detector before drilling in to floors or walls. When using power tools always use an RCD protection device, making certain that all power tool leads are in good condition. Always wear safety equipment. |
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To fit a new kitchen you will need to be an advanced DIYer, as there are many different skills involved, however the results will be very rewarding, not to mention the amount of money you’ll save by fitting it yourself. |
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Cabinets - The box
Posted on July 6, 2008 - Filed Under Cabinet Box, Kitchen Styles, Kitchen Cabinets | Leave a Comment
First you should understand what lies behind the cabinet door—the cabinet box. Your response may be a smug, Duh! But cabinet construction can get complicated rather quickly. There’s more going on than you might think. It breaks down by:
- Framed construction
- Frameless construction
In framed cabinets, wood joinery holds the parts together. Horizontal rails and vertical stiles secure the door to the box. In frameless cabinets, special hardware fittings do both jobs. Because no rails or stiles block the way, frameless cabinets offer slightly easier access to their interiors.
You might be surprised to learn that solid wood rarely forms the cabinet box. It’s more often used in face frames and doors than in the larger side panel parts. That’s because it tends to warp—a special concern in the kitchen where the moisture level changes frequently. But in the doors, using multiple strips of lumber in a variety of sizes can reduce the warp factor. A “floating” panel might also be used. The panel floats because instead of being glued to the doorframe, its edges sit between wooden grooves, allowing the wood to move more freely with changes in the kitchen’s humidity.
Box materials typically contain wood chips, other wood by-products, and synthetic additives to make them especially strong and warp resistant.
Your options for box material include:
- Plywood
- Particleboard or furniture-grade flake board
- Medium-density fiberboard
All have solid reputations for durability and screw-holding power, particularly plywood. Medium-density fiberboard has gained a following for its ability to be formed into door and drawer heads and other decorative features. Furniture-grade flake board offers a stronger alternative than particleboard, which you’ll pay the least for.
Often the door and box will be constructed of different materials. A cabinet door might be solid maple and the sides plywood covered with a maple veneer. The same finish would be applied to both, unifying the look. Or you may decide you want different tones on the door and the sides to add contrast.
You’ll want to make sure you know if the finish you like requires a certain base material, and you’ll want to check out examples of your manufacturer’s work. Beware of staples! Staples will pull apart. You want cabinets with thick panels that have been corner blocked and glued or fastened with screws.
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Kitchen Styles - Choosing a style
Posted on June 30, 2008 - Filed Under Kitchen Styles | Leave a Comment
Whether you’re a homeowner or looking to become one, chances are you know how overwhelming choosing designs to suit your taste and lifestyle can be. Well, you’re not alone. If you’re confused and not sure what your kitchen style is read on so you know before remodeling your kitchen or bath. It will make the process much easier for you and for your designer!
Victorian – Usually characterized by steeply pitched roofs, pointed-arch windows, elaborate trim along roof edges, high dormers, lancet windows and other Gothic details. Light fixtures range from chandeliers, kerosene and electric lamps to astrals, and sconces. Cabinets are usually weathered looking and made of heavy, real wood with chrome pulls and knobs.
Modern – Modern styles change from year to year. Most recent designs include sleek, straight and clean lines. Less is more, such as less accessories, visible appliances and details. Common materials include stainless steel, marble, granite and frosted glass. Basic geometric shapes and bold, bright colors such as reds, blues and yellow, black and white are prevalent.
Contemporary - Your tastes include the Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired. Your sensitivity to materials and a natural setting meets with a contemporary bent in home styles like Mission, Prairie and Arts & Crafts. When making your cabinet selection, consider birch as a clean and modern wood species. Choose details like geometric forms, art glass, contrasting textures and lines, and forged and wrought iron pulls.
Southwestern – A lot of detail and craftsmanship. Natural materials such as stucco and hand-painted fabrics are very common, as are wood, quarry tile, ceramic tile, earth tones and vibrant accessories. Colors usually reflect the nature of a desert such as warm oranges, greens, tans and browns. Southwest kitchens usually incorporate ceramic materials and terra cotta elements.
Traditional – Plays up architectural details such as crown moldings, raised wood paneling and rich, deep colors to enhance the mood and ‘traditional’ feel. Dark stains, honey tones, semi-opaque paints, wicker baskets and oak cabinets add to the usually more formal feel than country style.
Eclectic – A mix of old and new features combined for a harmonious look. This style is not characterized by a particular color palette, patterns, style or material but is a mix of extravagant decorations from numerous eras including hand-me-downs, second-hand items and other recyclables. Kitchens and bathrooms range from modern appliances mixed with antique decorations to the complete opposite.
Country – Rustic, weathered look creates a warm, cozy feeling in a country style home. Common colors range from muted hues to earth tones. Exposed beams, pine paneling, brick and barn boards are elements used to express this style. Fabrics and patterns are a sure way to create a ‘country’ feeling, as is the use of wallpaper and baskets.
40 Guidelines of Kitchen Planning
Posted on June 30, 2008 - Filed Under Guidelines, Kitchen Plans | Leave a Comment
| 1a. | Doorways at least 32″ wide and not more than 24″ deep in the direction of travel. |
| 1b. | Walkways at least 36″ wide. |
| 1c. | Work aisles at least 42″ wide for one-cook, at least 48″ wide in multi-cook kitchens. |
| 2. | Work triangle 26′ or less, with no single leg shorter than 4′ nor longer than 9′. |
| 3. | No major traffic patterns should cross through the work triangle. |
| 4. | No entry, appliance or cabinet doors should interfere with one another. |
| 5. | In seating area, 36″ of clearance from counter/table edge to wall/obstruction if no traffic passes behind seated diners. 65″ clearance for walkway behind seated diners. |
| 6. | Kitchens under 150 sq. ft.: 144″ of wall cabinet frontage with cabinets at least 12″ deep, 30″ high with adjustable shelving. Kitchen over 150 sq. ft.: 186″ wall cabinet frontage, with cabinets at least 12″ deep, 30″ high with adjustable shelving. |
| 7. | At least 60″ of wall cabinet frontage with cabinets at least 12″ deep, 30″ high, included within 72″ of the primary sink centerline. |
| 8. | Kitchens under 150 sq. ft.: 156″ base cabinet frontage with cabinets at least 21″ deep. Kitchens over 150 sq. ft.: 192″ base cabinet frontage with cabinets at least 21″ deep. |
| 9. | Kitchens under 150 sq. ft.: at least 120″ of drawer or roll-out shelf frontage. Kitchens over 150 sq. ft.: at least 165″ of drawer or roll-out shelf frontage. |
| 10. | At least five storage/organizing items located between 15″ - 48″ above the finished floor. |
| 11. | At least one functional corner storage unit should be included. |
| 12. | At least two waste receptacles should be included in the plan: one for garbage and one for recyclables. |
| 13. | Knee space should be planned below or adjacent to sinks, cooktops, ranges and ovens. This space should be a minimum of 27″ high by 30″ wide by 19″ deep. |
| 14. | Clear floor space of 30″ x 48″ should be provided at the sink, dishwasher, cooktop, oven and refrigerator. |
| 15. | A minimum of 21″ clear floor space should be allowed between the edge of the dishwasher and any object which is placed at a right angle to the dishwasher. |
| 16. | The edge of the primary dishwasher should be within 36″ of the edge of one sink. |
| 17. | The primary sink should be located between or across from the cooking surface, preparation area or refrigerator. |
| 18. | At least 24″ clearance between cooking surface and a protected surface above; or 30″ clearance between cooking surface and an unprotected surface above. |
| 19. | All major appliances used for surface cooking should have a ventilation system, with a fan rated at minimum of 150 CFM. |
| 20. | Cooking surface not placed below an operable window unless window is 3″ or more behind the appliance and more than 24″ above it. |
| 21. | Microwave ovens placed so bottom is 24″ to 48″ above the floor. |
| 22. | At least two work counter heights: one at 28″-36″ above the floor; and one at 36″-45″ above the floor. |
| 23. | Kitchens under 150 sq. ft.: at least 132″ of usable counter frontage. Kitchens over 150 sq. ft.: at least 198″ of usable counter frontage. |
| 24. | At least 24″ counter frontage to one side of the primary sink and 18″ on the other side. The 24″ must be at the same height as the sink. |
| 25. | At least 3″ countertop frontage on one side of secondary sink, 18″ on the other side. The 18″ must be at the same height as the sink. |
| 26. | At least 15″ of landing space, minimum 16″ deep, above, below or adjacent to microwave oven. |
| 27. | Open-ended kitchen: at least 9″ counter space on one side of cooking surface and 15″ on the other, at the same height as the appliance. Enclosed kitchen: at least 3″ of clearance space at an end wall protected by flame retardant material; 15″ on the other side at the same counter height as the appliance. |
| 28. | At least 15″ counter space on the latch side of the refrigerator or on either side of a side-by-side; or at least 15″ counter space no more than 48″ across from refrigerator. |
| 29. | At least 15″ of landing space, minimum 16″ deep, next to or above oven if it opens into a primary traffic pattern. If it does not open into traffic, 15″ x 16″ landing space needed. |
| 30. | 36″ continuous countertop at least 16″ deep for the preparation center. This center should be immediately next to a water source. |
| 31. | For two adjacent work centers, determine a minimum counter frontage: longest of the two required counter lengths and adding 12″. |
| 32. | No two primary work center separated by a full-height, full-depth tall tower configuration. |
| 33. | Minimum clearances for seating areas:
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| 34. | Open counter corners should be clipped or radiused; eliminate sharp corners. |
| 35. | Controls, handles and door/drawer pulls operational with one hand. |
| 36. | Wall-mounted room controls 15″ - 48″ above the finished floor. |
| 37. | Ground fault circuit interrupters specified on all receptacles within the kitchen. |
| 38. | Fire extinguisher visibly located in the kitchen, away from cooking equipment and 15″-48″ above floor. |
| 39. | Window/skylight area equals at least 10% of total square footage of kitchen or total living space which includes the kitchen. |
| 40. | Every work surface in the kitchen should be well illuminated by appropriate task and/or general lighting. |
Kitchen Layouts
Posted on June 30, 2008 - Filed Under Guidelines, Kitchen Layout, Kitchen Styles | Leave a Comment
Kitchen Styles - Layouts
Common Plans
The layout of your kitchen—where you place your appliances, your countertops, and your storage—will determine how cook-friendly your kitchen is. Ask yourself:
- Will I have to walk far to get water to top off a pot on the stove?
- Will I have enough space to slice, dice, chop, and otherwise prepare meals?
- Will I have room to store the olive oil near the stove or will I have to go across the room to get it?
- Will two or more cooks be able to work comfortably in the space without constantly bumping into each other?
- Will I be able to easily rinse dishes and load them into the dishwasher?
- Do I prefer a range or a separate cooktop and oven?
- Do I need a prep sink and a cleanup sink?
- Do I need an eating area in the kitchen?
Of course, if you’re remodeling, the structure of your existing home will limit your layout options. You’ll have considerably more flexibility the larger your space and if you’re building a new home or adding on.
Common kitchen plans include:
(Wall , Corridor ,L shape ,Double L shape ,U shape ,G shape )
Space Planning Guidelines
Get into the nitty-gritty of kitchen planning by reviewing the 40 guidelines drawn up by the National Kitchen & Bath Association. Designers typically view the guidelines as a starting point rather than as hard-and-fast rules. Some may apply to your kitchen, while others may seem irrelevant. Don’t get hung up on a guideline if you think there’s a better way to address your needs. And expect tradeoffs—more cabinet storage for less window space, for example.
Be forewarned that the guidelines may go into too much detail for you, depending on how involved you want to be in the actual measuring and space planning of your kitchen.
Highlights include:
- The contested work triangle. Designers all seem to have different opinions on the importance of the so-called work triangle. The NKBA defines the work triangle as an imaginary straight line drawn from the center of the sink, to the center of the cooktop, to the center of the refrigerator, and finally back to the sink. The triangle formed by these imaginary lines should total 26 feet or less, with no single leg of the triangle shorter than 4 feet or longer than 9 feet. The work triangle should also not intersect an island or peninsula by more than 12 inches. If the kitchen has only one sink, it should be placed between or across from the cooking surface, preparation area, or refrigerator.
Such exacting standards are meant to ensure that the cook won’t be too cramped, have to waste steps, or be interrupted by other traffic through the kitchen. But the work triangle has been criticized for being too restraining for kitchens where another arrangement may be more appropriate, particularly in kitchens where more than one cook will be working. - At least two work-counter heights should be offered in the kitchen, with one 28 inches to 36 inches above the finished floor and the other 36 inches to 45 inches above the finished floor. The different countertops make the kitchen more convenient for cooks of different heights, for seated cooks, and for bakers who can more comfortably roll dough at the lower height.
- Watch that no entry, appliance, or cabinet doors block each other when open. In a kitchen with an island, an appliance or cabinet door on the island shouldn’t hit an appliance or cabinet door across from it.
- To improve the function and accessibility of the kitchen, include at least five storage or organizing items, such as rollout shelves, lowered wall cabinets, raised base cabinets, tall cabinets, appliance garages, storage bins, cutlery dividers, swingout pantries.
- Microwave ovens should be placed so that the bottom of the appliance is 24 inches to 48 inches above the floor. But the final placement should be based on the cook’s physical abilities. If a seated cook or a child will use the microwave, for example, it may need to be lower.
- Windows and skylights should equal at least 10 percent of the total square footage of the separate kitchen or of the full living space that includes the kitchen.
Kitchen Styles - How to measure your kitchen
Posted on June 30, 2008 - Filed Under Kitchen Styles, Measure Kitchen, Kitchen Plans | Leave a Comment
Below is a step-by-step guide for drawing and measuring your kitchen. Each step is color-coded and matches the corresponding color in the sample drawing below.
NOTE: If you are remodeling, do not include in your measurements current cabinetry or other furniture that will not be kept, such as kitchen tables.
NOTE: All of your measurements should be in inches. For example, if you measure a wall that is 10 feet, write it as 120″.
Sample Drawing
STEP 1
Draw a rough outline of your kitchen. Use the following symbols in your drawing for doors and windows.
NOTE: For doorways with doors, draw the doorway according to which way the door swings.
STEP 2
Draw in any obstructions, such as radiators, pipes, sink plumbing, etc., that you either cannot move or do not want to move.
STEP 3
- A) Beginning at the top left corner of your drawing measure to the first window, door, or wall. Continue clockwise around the room until each wall, window and door has been measured. Note: When measuring doors and windows the trim is considered part of the door or window. As shown in the drawing below, measure from the outside of the trim on one side to the outside of the trim on the other side.
- B) Measure the ceiling height and write it in the center of your drawing. Sometimes, especially with older homes, it is a good idea to take measurements in a few different areas of the kitchen. Ceiling heights, even in the same room, can sometimes vary by as much as a few inches.
- C) As shown in the drawing below, measure from the floor to the bottom of each window and also measure the overall window height. If you have printed these instructions, write the measurements in the table provided below. Distance from Floor to Bottom of Window Height of Window Including Trim
Kitchen Styles - Color 101
Posted on June 30, 2008 - Filed Under Kitchen Styles, Kitchen Color | Leave a Comment
Your surroundings can affect you physically as well as emotionally, and can alter your outlook on life. For example, studies have shown that blue reduces aggression, that pink reduces stress, and that orange increases one’s energy.
Your bathroom is among the first things you see when you wake up in the morning, and it could set the mood for your whole day. Generally speaking, bathroom colors should be light and airy to keep the walls from closing in, but there are opportunities to add vibrant colors in accent pieces.
Red
the color of Fire, signifies Summer, symbolizes Fame
Mood: Energy, Passion, Power, Excitement
In various cultures, red represents energy and intelligence, authority and power, or leadership and confidence.
In color therapy it represents courage, self-reliance, and vitality. It carries a maximal state of energy.
People who like reds tend to be generous, to appreciate order, and develop keen sensitivities to the arts.
Prolonged exposure can leave one agitated or even aggressive as it increases heart rate and blood pressure. It is a color best used for accessories.
SECONDARY COLORS:
Pink (red + white) is the color of partnership, marriage. In color therapy it is love, truth, and beauty. People who like pink display forgiveness and compassion. Pink: is used in diet therapy as an appetite suppressant; it relaxes muscles, relieves tension, and gives the feeling of gentle warmth and nurturing. It reduces aggression, and alleviates over sensitivity. In decorating, pink is considered a romantic color, best used in dining rooms and bedrooms. Orange (red + yellow) is a color of energy. Mood: Happy, Confident, Creative, and Adventurous Orange will have a gentle warming effect if used lightly. Like red, it should not be used for too long. It stimulates appetite and is not a good color for people who are easily agitated. It is a joyous color; it releases emotion and alleviates feelings of self-pity, and lack of self worth. It stimulates the mind, renewing interest in life; it is a wonderful antidepressant. Apricot/ Peach is good for nervous exhaustion
Yellow
signifies Indian Summer, symbolizes Health
Mood: Wisdom, Playful, Satisfying, Optimistic
Yellow represents balance or neutrality and long life. In color therapy it encourages meditation, tranquility, and wisdom. It represents energy in balance. People who like yellow tend to be cheerful. Yellow fosters personal power and inner harmony. It is the color of intellect and it is used for mental stimulation. it can be very stimulating though, and it could cause exhaustion. Yellow: energizes and stimulates conversation. It is best suited to daytime rooms that get a lot of traffic.
SECONDARY COLORS:
Brown
is the color of Mother Earth. It brings a sense of stability. However it also relates to retreat from and a fear of the outside world. Beige works well to tone down bolder colors, but works well alone to bring attention to a room as a whole.
Green
Green, the color of Wood, signifies Spring, symbolizes Family
Mood: Health, Regeneration, Contentment, Harmony
Green represents life, love, and youth. In color therapy it is used for balance and self-control. It represents a growing phase of energy. People who like green tend to be patient and persistent. Green is the color of harmony and balance. It is good for tired nerves; it is a good healing color. It is soothing, relaxing both mentally and physically, and helps those suffering from depression and anxiety. It is considered a neutral color that blends well with other colors, and is best used in daytime rooms that get a lot of traffic. Dark green, aquamarine, represents the release of stored energy, called ‘Heaven’s laughter’. People who like dark green tend to trust in intuition, be frivolous and playful. We instinctively seek out this color when under stress. It creates a feeling of comfort and relaxation, calmness, and soothing of emotions. Dark green is used to create drama in decorating and to create an intimate space. Lime and olive green can have a detrimental effect on both physical and emotional health.
Yellowish green is associated with envy, resentment, and possessiveness.
Blue
Blue, the color of Water, signifies Winter symbolizes Knowledge
Mood: Honesty, Integrity, Trustworthy
Blue stands for wisdom, confidence, and independence. In color therapy it brings knowledge, and good health. It represents Energy on the decline. People who like blue tend toward creative self-expression. It is the color of serenity and harmony; it cools, calms, and protects. It will help feverish conditions, and lower blood pressure. It is very good for burns. However, too much blue could leave you cold and depressed. It is a good color for rooms with abundant natural light.
SECONDARY COLORS:
Indigo is a powerful, psychic color; it stimulates intuition and imagination. It is also a strong sedative. Turquoise We associate blue green with the refreshing and cool ocean. It is therefore invigorating, cooling and calming. Like green, turquoise is good for mental strain and exhaustion. It is an elevating color that encourages us to make a sparkling fresh start. Turquoise is also helpful for feelings of loneliness; it heightens sensitivity, and creativity
Purple
Purple, also the color of Fire, signifies Summer, symbolizes Wealth
Mood: Regal, Mystic, Beauty, Inspiration
Purple represents dignity, wealth, and power. In color therapy it is creativity and spiritual inspiration. It represents energy at its maximum dormancy. It is good for mental and nervous problems, and helps connect you with your spiritual self. It aids in the treatment of pain and has been used in psychiatric care to help calm patients suffering from nervous disorders. It is often used in decorating to create an ambiance of luxury.
SECONDARY COLORS:
Violet is a color of transformation at a very deep level, bringing peace and combating fear. It is connected with artistic and musical creativity, sensitivity, and compassion. Purple and Violet can exert strong psychic influences, however, and a person attracted by it has to guard against living in a fantasy world.
Magenta When we are feeling despondent and worried about our condition, or feeling angry and frustrated, magenta draws us out of this attitude and lets our spirits soar. It is a spiritual color but it’s also associated with compassion and kindness. Like violet, though, it can be too relaxing. So avoid magenta if you are chronically depressed or introverted.
Black / White
Black
Signifies Winter, symbolizes Career
Black represents dignity, aloofness, and solitude. 
In color therapy, it is mysterious comforting, and protective. It is associated with stability, reliability, and peace, but also Death. 
Black is considered stark. In large doses, it can be unsettling - even depressing 
Black painted walls should be limited to powder rooms, or rooms that are seen but seldom used. 
Black accents lend an air of sophistication and openness.
SECONDARY COLORS:
Gray is associated with independence, self-reliance, and self-control. However, gray generally has a negative feeling i.e.; thick gray clouds, fog, and smoke. Grey is the color of evasion and non-commitment since it is neither black nor white.
It is best used mixed with white, and with dark colored accents (reds: burgundy, mauve. blues: navy. green: forest)
Silver is the color of the moon, which is ever changing. It relates to the feminine principles and the emotional, sensitive aspects of the mind. It balances, harmonizes, and is mentally cleansing.
White
White represents determination, leadership, and innocence. In color therapy it stands for peace and comfort, and cleansing of the spirit. It represents a declining state of energy.
People who like white are alert, communicative, and openhearted. White is an all-round color. It is the best reliever of pain, and can give a feeling of uncluttered openness. Too much white, however, can be cold and isolating. It tends to open up spaces lacking natural light.
SECONDARY COLORS:
GOLD: is the strongest color to help cure all illness. It is so strong, however, that people have to be conditioned to gold over a period of time.
